Coverstitch Machine Buyers Guide
What Is a Coverstitch Machine?
A coverstitch machine forms two or three parallel rows of straight stitching on the face of the fabric, while a looper thread chains between them on the reverse. The looper thread has slack built into it, so the stitch stretches with the fabric and recovers, which is why hems on jersey, Lycra and rib do not pop.
Coverstitch vs Overlocker
An overlocker trims and encloses the raw edge and builds seams that stretch. A coverstitch machine trims nothing. It hems and topstitches edges that are already sewn.
The two work together: you overlock the seams to build the garment, then coverstitch the hems, cuffs and neckband to finish it. See our Overlocker Buyers Guide or browse the overlockers range.
Coverstitch vs Twin Needle
A twin needle on a standard sewing machine gives two parallel rows on the face, so at a glance the result looks similar. On the reverse, the bobbin thread zigzags rather than chaining, which gives far less stretch. Twin-needle hems tunnel more readily and can snap when stretched, so it’s a reasonable stand-in for occasional hemming rather than a substitute.
Do I Still Need a Sewing Machine?
Yes. A coverstitch machine cannot reverse, sew a buttonhole or insert a zip, so it cannot build a whole garment on its own. Coverstitch and chainstitch also unravel if a thread end is pulled, so your seams still need a lockstitch. It sits alongside your sewing machine and overlocker. Our Sewing Machine Buyers Guide covers the machine that should come first.
Who Is a Coverstitch Machine For?
New to Sewing Knits
If you've just started sewing jersey and you're frustrated by hems that pop or ripple, a coverstitch machine solves that problem outright. Threading and tension take some practice, so most people buy one as a second or third machine rather than a first.
Regular Garment and Jersey Sewers
If you make t-shirts, leggings, sweatshirts or knit dresses regularly, this is the machine that gives your knitwear a ready-to-wear finish. It saves time too, because a hem that would need pressing, pinning and basting can be stitched in one pass.
Activewear and Business Sewers
Activewear depends on stitching that stretches and recovers under strain. A coverstitch handles elastic application, binding, flatlock effects and high-volume hemming at speed, so you get consistent results across a run of garments, not one-off successes.
Types of Coverstitch Machines
Two needles and one looper give you a three-thread coverstitch plus a single-row chainstitch. Two-needle also describes a stitch setting rather than only a class of machine, which is why narrow and wide coverstitch appear as two-needle stitches further down this page.
Dedicated two-needle machines are simpler to thread, but every coverstitch machine we stock is a three-needle model, because three needles cost little more and do considerably more. You still get both two-needle stitches, just from a machine that also does triple coverstitch.
The standard for home sewing. Three needles and one looper give you narrow and wide two-needle coverstitch, three-needle triple coverstitch and chainstitch from one machine, simply by changing which needles you thread. This is where most buyers should start.
A dedicated coverstitch machine makes sense if you already own an overlocker you are happy with, you hem knits frequently and you want to switch between jobs without rethreading. Buying it on its own rather than as half of a coverlock also puts your whole budget into the stitch itself.
A top coverstitch machine adds a fourth or fifth thread that lays a decorative stitch across the face as well as the reverse, the closest a home machine comes to a factory finish.
Top cover is an extra, not a replacement: these machines still do everything a three-needle machine does, and you thread the top cover looper only when you want that finish. The Brother CV3550 and the Janome CoverPro 3000 Professional both offer it.
Choose it if you make sportswear or want contrast detailing on your hems, and skip it if you only hem plain jersey.
One machine that does both jobs. Coverlocks save money and bench space, which counts if you work in a shared or limited space. The trade-off is reconfiguring: switching between the two means changing the needle plate, the presser foot and the threading, so it takes a few minutes each time.
A combination machine makes sense if space or budget is tight, if you do not yet own an overlocker, or if you sew knits occasionally. See our Overlocker Buyers Guide for the overlocking side, or our own model-by-model review in best coverstitch machines.
Coverstitch Stitch Types Explained
Two rows of stitching set roughly 3mm apart, with the looper chain between them on the reverse. The narrow setting suits lightweight jersey, fine knits, children's clothing and anywhere a discreet hem looks better than a bold one.
The same stitch with the rows set further apart, usually around 6mm. The wider spread holds heavier fabric flat, so it works well on sweatshirting, fleece and French terry where a narrow hem would roll.
Triple coverstitch puts all three needles to work, giving three rows on the face and a fuller chain on the reverse. It’s the strongest and most stable of the coverstitch options, so it’s the one to use on activewear waistbands, heavy hems, neckbands and anywhere the stitching takes real strain.
One needle and the looper produce a single straight row on the face with a chain on the reverse. Chainstitch has more give than a lockstitch and it is the stitch used on the outseams and hems of commercially made jeans, so it is the one to reach for on denim topstitching.
Available in all three widths on machines fitted with a top cover looper. The extra thread lays across the right side as well, so you can produce decorative topstitching, binding, mock flatlock seams and the sort of contrast detailing you see on sportswear.
What You Can Do with a Coverstitch Machine
Hemming Knits and T-Shirts
The core job, and what most buy the machine for. Press the hem up, then stitch from the right side so the two rows sit on the face and the chain covers the raw edge underneath. The hem gives as the garment goes on and settles back afterwards, so t-shirts, sweatshirts and knit dresses keep their shape wash after wash.
Hemming Cuffs in the Round
Sleeves, cuffs, necklines and leg openings, sewn as one continuous circle with no start-and-stop join to interrupt the hem. This needs a free arm, which is less common on coverstitch machines than it is on sewing machines, so check the specification before you buy if you hem a lot of sleeves, cuffs or small openings.
Ready-to-Wear Topstitching
Neckbands, waistbands and pocket edges, finished with the same double row you see on shop-bought garments. Stitch from the right side so the needle rows land where they show, and use the chainstitch on its own for denim and jeans topstitching, where one line of stitching with some give works better than a lockstitch.
Binding Necks and Armholes
Applied with a binder attachment, coverstitch gives a neat bound edge on necklines, armholes and blanket edges in one pass, with no separate folding or pressing. Binder attachments are sold by width and by brand, so check what is available for the model you are buying if binding is something you plan to do regularly.
Attaching Elastic and Tape
The stitch stretches with the elastic, so waistbands and leg openings hold their shape through wear and washing instead of going slack. Work with the elastic slightly stretched as it feeds, keep the differential feed low so the fabric is not eased in or out, and use a stretch needle on any fabric containing elastane.
Mock Flatlock and Contrast
Reverse the fabric and the looper chain becomes the feature, which gives a mock flatlock effect across the right side of a seam. On a top coverstitch machine you can thread a contrast colour through the top cover looper instead, so the decorative row sits on the right side of the fabric without turning the work over.
What to Consider When Buying
A coverstitch is used on the flat and in the round, so the space under the arm matters more than it does on an overlocker. Bigger projects need more room, so check to the right of the needle if you hem finished garments or anything bulky. A free arm is what lets you hem a cuff or a sleeve as a closed circle, so look for one early if you sew a lot of sleeves and small openings.
Two, three, four and five thread configurations each give you a different set of stitches. Three needles is the sensible baseline for home sewing. Move up to four or five threads only if you specifically want top coverstitch.
Threading is where most frustration starts, so colour-coded paths, lay-in tension dials and easy lower looper access make a real difference. Air threading systems, found on machines such as the baby lock Cover Stitch, bernette b68 Airlock, PFAFF Admire Air 6000 and BERNINA L890, blow the looper thread through the machine, which means threading takes seconds rather than minutes.
Tension is the other sticking point. Manual dials give you full control once you understand them, while automatic tension removes the guesswork and is worth paying for if you switch between fabric types often.
These are the three settings that fix wavy hems and tunnelling. Differential feed controls how much fabric is eased in or stretched out, presser foot pressure controls how firmly the fabric is held, and stitch length affects how the stitch sits. Make sure all three are adjustable.
Most domestic coverstitch machines run at 1,000 to 1,500 stitches per minute, more than enough for home use. Look for a metal internal frame, LED lighting over the needle area and enough weight to stay planted at speed. Binder attachments, elastic feet, hemming guides and clear feet all extend what the machine can do, and availability varies a great deal by brand, so check the accessory range before you commit to a model.
Coverstitch Machine Brands
Janome Coverstitch Machines
Janome's CoverPro range is built for dedicated coverstitch work, with a wide flat bed and a good stitch. Both models handle narrow, wide and triple coverstitch plus chainstitch. The 3000 Professional adds a fifth thread and top cover stitch, so the row also shows on the face of the fabric.
Popular models: CoverPro 2000CPX, CoverPro 3000 Professional
Brother Coverstitch Machines
Brother offer two of the most affordable ways into coverstitch in the UK. Both models are three-needle machines with colour-coded threading paths and a free arm, and the CV3550 adds a top cover looper, so you can add decorative stitching on the face of the fabric as well as on the reverse.
Popular models: CV3440, CV3550 top coverstitch
baby lock Coverstitch Machines
baby lock build both dedicated coverstitch machines and coverlocks, with a range running from the straightforward Cover Stitch up to the Gloria. Every baby lock coverstitch machine uses air threading, so the looper threads drop into place at the touch of a button with no tweezers involved.
Popular models: Cover Stitch, Euphoria, Primo, Aspire Coverlock, Ovation Coverlock, Gloria Coverlock
bernette Coverstitch Machines
bernette sits at the value end of the Swiss-designed machines and covers all three formats. The Funlock b42 is a dedicated coverstitch machine, the Funlock b48 combines overlocking and coverstitching, and the b68 Airlock adds air threading at a price well below the machines it competes with.
Popular models: Funlock b42, Funlock b48 Overlocker & Coverstitch, b68 Airlock
PFAFF Coverstitch Machines
PFAFF coverstitch models are combination machines rather than dedicated models. The Admire Air 6000 Coverlock pairs overlocking and coverstitching in a single body, and air threading on the loopers means you can move between overlocking and coverstitching without a long rethread each time.
Popular models: Admire Air 6000 Coverlock
BERNINA Coverstitch Machines
The BERNINA L890 is the top-of-the-range combination overlocker and coverstitch machine. It uses air threading on the loopers and a full-colour touchscreen that walks you through stitch settings step by step, which means less time spent reconfiguring between overlocking and coverstitching.
Popular models: L890 Overlocker & Coverstitch
Coverstitch Machine Prices
At this level you get a capable three-needle machine with manual tension and colour-coded threading. The bernette Funlock b42 and the Brother CV3440 and CV3550 all sit here. You’ll thread by hand and you'll spend time dialling in tension, but the stitch itself is the real thing.
The bernette Funlock b48, Janome CoverPro 2000CPX, Janome CoverPro 3000 Professional and baby lock Cover Stitch sit in this bracket. You are paying for a better build, a wider workspace, smoother fabric handling and, on the b48, a machine that overlocks as well.
Automatic tension, the widest stitch ranges and the most refined build all sit above £1,200. The bernette b68 Airlock, baby lock Euphoria, Aspire, Primo, Ovation and Gloria, PFAFF Admire Air 6000 and BERNINA L890 all sit here. If you sew knits several times a week, the time saved on threading and setup adds up quickly.
On Buying Cheap and Buying Used
The lowest price is not always the lowest cost over time. Very low-cost machines tend to fall down on tension consistency, which is exactly the thing that makes coverstitching frustrating in the first place. A well-cared-for second-hand coverstitch machine from a dealer will usually outperform a budget new one, and you have someone to go back to if the stitch will not settle.
Ex-display machines are worth a look if you are working to a budget. These have been used for demonstrations in our Cornwall showroom, so they may have light cosmetic marks. Each one is tested by our sewing machine engineers before it is sold and comes with its original accessories and packaging, and the remaining manufacturer warranty still applies. Stock changes week to week, so it’s worth checking the ex-display machines collection while you are deciding.
Getting the Best Results from Your Coverstitch Machine
Thread in the Right Order
Thread the looper first, then the needles. Doing it the other way round traps the thread and produces skipped stitches almost every single time. Most machines have the correct order printed inside the front cover for reference.
Match Your Needles to the Fabric
Use ballpoint or jersey needles on knits and stretch needles on anything with elastane. A sharp universal needle will cut the fibres in a knit, which causes the skipped stitches and laddering people usually blame on tension.
Fixing Tunnelling
Tunnelling is when the fabric ridges up between the rows of stitching. Loosen the looper tension, lengthen the stitch and lower the presser foot pressure. If it persists, stabilise the hem with stay tape before you stitch.
Fixing Wavy Hems
A rippled hem has been stretched as it fed through, not ridged up between the rows. Set the differential feed to ease the fabric in rather than stretch it. Basting first helps on fine or stretchy fabric.
Securing and Unpicking
Coverstitch doesn't reverse, so secure the ends with a knotted thread tail or a fray stopper. The looper chain only unravels in the opposite direction to stitching, so if unpicking locks up, start from the other end.
Keep a Note of Your Settings
Note down tension, stitch length, differential feed and presser foot pressure for each fabric you sew, along with a small stitched sample. It takes a minute and saves the whole set-up next time that fabric comes round.
Maintenance and Care
Coverstitch machines need a little routine care to keep stitching cleanly:
Clear the Lint
Brush out the needle and looper area after every project, especially after fleece and terry, which shed far more lint than most.
Avoid Home Oiling
Some machines should never be oiled at home, so check your manual first and leave anything computerised to a qualified engineer.
Use Quality Thread
Cheap thread sheds lint and breaks under the tension these machines apply, so choose a good polyester and keep your cones clean.
Replace Needles
Change needles regularly, because a blunt one causes more problems than anything else, including skipped stitches and laddering.
Keep It Covered
Cover the machine when it is not in use to keep dust out of the tension discs, where it is hardest to shift once it has settled.
Book Regular Servicing
Our in-house engineers service most brands, so a yearly check-up is easy to arrange. Find out more about servicing your machine.
Frequently Asked Questions
Find answers to the most common questions below.
What Does a Coverstitch Machine Actually Sew?
A coverstitch machine is a finishing machine for stretch fabric. It produces the neat double or triple row of hem stitching you see on t-shirts, leggings and sweatshirts, and it is the one stitch a standard sewing machine cannot properly reproduce.
What Does a Coverstitch Machine Do?
It hems, topstitches, binds edges and attaches elastic on knits, and the chainstitch handles denim topstitching. It doesn't trim edges, sew plain seams, reverse or make buttonholes.
Do I Need a Coverstitch Machine If I Already Have an Overlocker?
That depends on how often you hem knits. If your overlocked garments look right at the seams but are being let down at the hems, cuffs and neckband, a coverstitch is the machine that closes the gap. If you sew knits only occasionally, you may not need one yet.
What Is the Difference Between a Coverstitch Machine and an Overlocker?
An overlocker trims the raw edge as it sews and wraps it in thread. A coverstitch machine leaves the edge alone and sews over the top of it. Most people who sew knits regularly end up owning both.
Can I Coverstitch With a Normal Sewing Machine?
No. A twin needle is the closest you'll get on a standard sewing machine and it is fine for the occasional hem, but there is no setting, foot or attachment that turns a sewing machine into a coverstitch machine. For anything you will wear and wash regularly, the hem will not hold up in the same way.
Is a Coverstitch Machine Suitable for Beginners?
Most people come to a coverstitch machine once they already have a sewing machine and an overlocker. There's nothing difficult about using one, but you'll get the best out of it if you are already comfortable sewing knits.
Can a Coverstitch Machine Sew a Normal Seam?
No. Coverstitch and chainstitch both unravel if the thread end is pulled, and neither reverses to lock the stitch. Use your sewing machine or overlocker for construction and the coverstitch for finishing.
What Is the Best Coverstitch Machine in the UK?
That depends on your budget and how often you sew knits. Our team has compared the current range model by model in our guide to the best coverstitch machines.
How Much Does a Coverstitch Machine Cost?
Dedicated coverstitch machines start at around £525 and with a top end price of roughly £2,700. Combination overlocker and coverstitch machines start at around £645 and reach £4,495 at the top of the range.
Is It Worth Buying a Second-Hand Coverstitch Machine?
Often yes, provided it comes from a dealer who has serviced and tested it. These machines hold their stitch well over time. Buying privately means no service history and nobody to help if it arrives out of adjustment. Our ex-display machines are a middle route, as the balance of the manufacturer warranty still applies.
What Thread and Needles Do Coverstitch Machines Use?
Needle systems vary by brand, which catches people out. Brother coverstitch machines take standard 130/705H household needles, so you can pick those up anywhere. Janome CoverPro and bernette Funlock models both use the ELx705 system, which is less widely stocked and worth ordering ahead of time. Check your manual before buying needles, and choose ballpoint, jersey or stretch points for knits. Use good polyester thread throughout, and consider woolly nylon in the looper for extra stretch and better coverage on activewear.
Not sure which machine is right for you?
Take our quick quiz for a recommendation based on your experience, the fabrics you sew and the projects you have in mind. If you would rather talk it through, chat with one of our machine experts online or contact us and the team will help you compare models.
