Overlocker Buyers Guide
With over 20 years matching sewers to machines, we've put this guide together to help you work out which overlocker suits the way you sew. Below you'll find the types of overlocker available, the features worth paying for, what each thread count does and what you can expect to pay at each level.
You may also see overlockers called sergers, which is the American term for the same machine.
Who Is an Overlocker For?
New to Overlocking
A standard 3 and 4-thread machine is a sensible starting point if you have never used an overlocker. These machines handle seam finishing, knit seams and rolled hems, so you can cover most garment jobs while you learn. Threading takes practice on any manual machine, so look for a colour-coded path, a lower looper threader and a chart printed inside the door.
Regular Garment Making
Once you are sewing clothes most weeks, the features that save setup time matter more than the entry price. Air threading, adjustable presser foot pressure and a quick rolled hem changeover all cut down the time between sitting down and stitching, so you spend more of your sewing time at the machine.
Sewing at Volume or Making to Sell
Sewing for long stretches, or making garments to sell, calls for a machine built for continuous use, with features such as automatic thread delivery, higher stitching speeds and a frame that stays steady through a long session. Machines at this level hold their tension across different fabrics and thread weights, which means fewer test seams and more consistent results across a batch.
Types of Overlocker
Standard Overlockers
Standard overlockers cover the core 2, 3 and 4-thread stitches with no automation to speed up setup. Threading is done by hand, with colour-coded guides making the process more manageable and most machines include a lower looper threader to help with the fiddliest part. They work alongside a regular sewing machine rather than replacing it and are the least expensive way into overlocking.
Air Threading Overlockers
Air threading overlockers use a built-in air system to thread the loopers for you. Place the thread in the guide, press the lever and the machine does the rest, which means the most awkward part of setting up takes seconds rather than minutes. Worth considering if you change thread colours often or find close work with tweezers difficult.
Combination Overlocker and Coverstitch Machines
Combination machines handle both overlocking and coverstitch in one unit. A coverstitch creates the double-needle topstitching you see on shop-bought t-shirt hems and activewear, so having both functions saves bench space and the cost of buying twice. Converting from one mode to the other means changing the needle plate, the presser foot and the threading, which takes practice.
Coverstitch Machines
Coverstitch machines do one job and do it well. They do not trim or finish raw edges, so they sit alongside an overlocker rather than replacing one. If your seams are already neat and it is the hems letting a garment down, this is the next machine to add.
What You Can Do with an Overlocker
Before choosing a machine, it helps to think about which of these jobs you will do most often. The features that matter for knitwear are not the same as those that matter for fine fabrics or heavy furnishing weights.
Seam Finishing and Garment Construction
The most common use for an overlocker is sewing and finishing a seam at the same time. As the machine stitches, the blade trims the seam allowance and the threads wrap the raw edge, so the seam is sewn and the edge protected before the fabric leaves the foot. Dressmaking moves faster and the inside of a garment looks as neat as the outside.
Stretch and Knit Fabrics
Overlockers handle jersey, elastane blends and other stretch fabrics better than most sewing machines. The differential feed controls how much the fabric stretches as it travels through, so you can sew knit seams without wavy or rippled edges. The multi-thread stitch stretches with the fabric too, which means seams stay intact when a garment is pulled on.
Rolled Hems
A rolled hem folds and stitches a very narrow edge as the machine sews, so you can finish scarves, napkins, eveningwear and lightweight curtains without hand sewing. Most overlockers include rolled hem capability, though the ease of switching into rolled hem mode varies between machines.
Flatlock Stitching and Decorative Edges
Flatlock joins two pieces of fabric so the seam lies flat rather than standing up, so it works well for activewear where a raised seam would rub. The stitch can also be used decoratively, with the ladder side showing on the outside of a garment. Picot edges and other decorative finishes are available on machines with 2-thread capability.
Home Furnishings
Cushion covers, curtains, table linen and tote bags all benefit from neatly finished seams and an overlocker gets through the finishing far faster than a zigzag stitch on a sewing machine. The blade keeps the seam allowance consistent as you work, so finished pieces come out more even.
Making Clothes to Sell
Neat seam finishing is one of the clearest signals of quality on a garment made to sell. An overlocker gives that finish consistently and quickly, which means you can raise the standard of your work without adding hours to each piece. Machines with automatic thread delivery hold their stitch consistency across a run, so items in a batch match one another.
What to Consider When Buying an Overlocker
An overlocker runs at higher speeds than a sewing machine, so build matters. Machines with metal internal frames stay steadier at speed and hold their settings for longer than all-plastic construction.
Factor in the running costs too. Overlockers trim as they sew, which means more lint to clear from the blade area and cutting blades that wear and need replacing rather than sharpening. Needles wear faster at speed as well. Buying from a brand with an established service network keeps all of this straightforward and we service and repair most brands in our Cornwall workshop, so your machine stays covered under its manufacturer warranty.
Think about how your sewing might change. A machine that suits occasional seam finishing should still have room for you to move into knitwear, rolled hems and decorative work as your confidence grows.
A higher price does not always mean a better fit. The right overlocker is the one that matches your projects, your patience with threading and your budget.
Entry-level overlockers are a sound starting point. They produce the same 3 and 4-thread stitches as machines several times the price, and many sewers use one happily for years. What you gain further up the range is convenience: faster threading, less tension adjustment and better handling across a wider spread of fabric weights.
The right machine depends on what you plan to make. Someone finishing the odd seam on cotton dressmaking needs a very different machine from someone sewing jersey every week or making to sell.
Be realistic about space too. Overlockers are noisier than sewing machines and produce offcuts and lint as they trim. If yours will live on a shelf between projects, weight and a carry handle matter. If it stays out, a waste catcher and good lighting will make more difference.
For model-by-model recommendations across each budget, read our guide to the best overlocker machines.
What Type of Overlocker Is Right for You?
Overlockers differ mainly in how you thread them and how much tension work the machine does for you. This is where most of the price difference sits, so it is worth deciding what you want before comparing models.
Manual machines have lay-in tension dials you set yourself. The lower looper is the step that takes longest to learn, though a threading chart and a looper threader both make it manageable. The dials respond predictably once you learn them, so you keep full control over how each seam sits.
The trade-off is setup time, which drops noticeably once the threading path becomes familiar. If you sew long sessions in one thread colour, threading is something you do once rather than every time you sit down. They also give you the widest choice at the lower end of the market, so the budget goes further on build and stitch options.
Air threading removes the looper threading step entirely, leaving only the needles to thread by hand. Tension is still set by hand on most air threading machines, giving you the convenience without giving up control.
Air threading sits mainly in the mid-range and above, so it costs more than a manual machine of similar stitch capability. It earns that premium if you sew in short, frequent sessions, since the setup time saved each time adds up quickly.
Machines with automatic thread delivery set the tension themselves as fabric and thread change. You sew fewer test strips and get consistent stitch formation across different weights, which means less time adjusting and more time finishing garments. This sits at the upper end of the range and suits frequent sewing and batch work.
The cost sits well above a manual or air threading machine, so it is worth being honest about how often you sew before stepping up. Where these machines pay for themselves is variety, moving from dressmaking one week to heavyweight furnishing the next with nothing to reset in between. If you tend to sew the same few fabrics, a manual machine set up once will serve you just as well.
What Type of Fabric Will You Be Sewing?
Jersey, interlock, French terry and swimwear fabrics need a machine with a wide differential feed range, since that is the setting doing the work on these fabrics. A 4-thread overlock gives the strength and stretch these fabrics need. Woolly nylon in the loopers adds softness against the skin, which matters on necklines and activewear.
Set the differential feed above 1.0 before you start and sew a test strip from the same fabric, since jersey weights behave differently from one another. Adjustable presser foot pressure gives you a second setting to reach for if the seam is still not sitting flat.
Cottons, linens and dressmaking wovens fray, so the main job is neatening the raw edge. A 3-thread overlock is usually enough, and many sewers construct the seam on their sewing machine and finish the allowances separately. For heavier wovens such as denim and canvas, check the machine's stated fabric range, increase the foot pressure and expect to change blades more often.
If you mostly sew wovens, threading convenience matters less than it does for knitwear, since you are unlikely to change colours mid-project. Put the budget towards adjustable cutting width and foot pressure instead, since those are the settings you will reach for most on wovens.
Chiffon, voile and silk need light presser foot pressure and a narrow stitch so the edge does not stiffen or pucker. Rolled hem capability and 2-thread stitching both come into their own here, since they add the least bulk to a finished edge.
Test on a scrap first, because the pressure and stitch width that suit a cotton voile will usually be too heavy for silk. Thread choice matters as much as the settings here, since a fine thread in the loopers keeps the edge soft rather than wiry.
Overlocker Prices
Machines in this range suit sewers trying an overlocker for the first time or sewing occasionally. Most are 3 and 4-thread machines with manual colour-coded threading paths, lay-in tension dials and differential feed. They cover the common overlocking jobs well and come with the accessories you need to start. Build is sound for the price, though stitch options are more limited than on mid-range models.
Brands in this range: Brother, Janome, BERNINA, PFAFF, bernette
Mid-range machines suit sewers who sew regularly and want more capability without moving to the top of the market. Air threading appears at this level, along with a wider stitch selection and better handling across different fabric weights. Build is noticeably stronger, and these machines cope well with regular garment making.
Brands in this range: Brother, Janome, BERNINA, PFAFF, bernette, baby lock
High-end overlockers are built for frequent, heavy use. Expect full air threading on both loopers, finer tension control and a build that takes daily use. Some include coverstitch as well, so seam finishing and knitwear hems can be handled on one machine. These suit confident sewers, regular garment makers and anyone who wants setup time kept to a minimum.
Brands in this range: BERNINA, PFAFF, baby lock
1. Overlocker Thread Count
The number of threads a machine uses determines which stitches you can sew. Most sewers spend the majority of their time on 3 and 4-thread stitches, with 2-thread capability useful for finer fabrics and 5-thread reserved for heavy-duty construction.
A 2-thread stitch uses one needle and one looper to create a light, flat edge finish. It produces less bulk than a 3 or 4-thread stitch, so it suits fine fabrics where a heavier stitch would show through or feel stiff. It is also used for flatlock and for the lightest rolled hems on very fine fabrics. Not every overlocker offers it and on machines that do it usually needs an upper looper converter, so check the specification if this matters to you.
A 3-thread stitch uses one needle and two loopers to produce a seam finish lighter than a 4-thread stitch. It suits medium-weight fabrics where you want a neat edge without extra thickness at the seam. It is the standard rolled hem stitch on most machines, and the usual choice for neatening seam allowances on wovens where the seam itself is sewn on a sewing machine.
The 4-thread overlock is the stitch you will use most. Two needles and two loopers create a strong, wide seam with the edge fully enclosed. It handles most fabric types and stretches with the cloth, making it the right choice for general garment making. Most overlockers include it as standard, including entry-level machines.
A 5-thread stitch adds a chain stitch alongside a 3-thread overlock. The chain stitch runs down the seam while the overlock finishes the edge, giving a stronger join than a 4-thread stitch on its own. It is found on combination and higher-end machines, and is worth having for workwear, denim and anything washed frequently.
2. Overlocker Differential Feed
Differential feed uses two sets of feed dogs running at different speeds. Changing the ratio between them controls how the fabric behaves as it passes under the needle. Check the adjustment range when comparing machines rather than just whether the feature is present.
With both sets of feed dogs running at the same speed, the fabric passes through without being stretched or compressed. This is the setting for stable wovens such as cotton and linen, where the fabric needs no help to feed evenly.
Raising the setting above 1.0 makes the front feed dogs move faster than the rear ones, easing extra fabric under the foot before the stitch forms. Around 1.5 this stops jersey coming out wavy, so it is the setting for t-shirts, leggings and swimwear. At 2.0 the same action gathers the fabric deliberately, which is a quick way to make a frill or ease a sleeve head.
Dropping the setting below 1.0 makes the front feed dogs move slower than the rear ones, holding the fabric taut as it sews. Around 0.7 this stops fine wovens puckering along the seam. On stretch fabrics the same setting produces the wavy lettuce edge used on hems and frills.
3. Overlocker Features and Controls
Beyond threading and feed, a handful of adjustments decide how wide a range of work a machine will take on comfortably. These are the ones worth checking on the specification before you buy.
Cutting width sets how much fabric the blade trims and how wide the finished stitch sits. Being able to adjust it means a narrow trim on fine fabric and a wider one on a loose weave that frays badly, so the stitch suits the cloth in front of you.
Presser foot pressure controls how firmly the fabric is held as it feeds. Lighter pressure suits fine fabrics that would otherwise stretch, heavier pressure suits thick or layered work, so one machine copes with a much wider spread of materials.
Some machines switch to rolled hem with a lever or a dial. Others need the stitch plate or stitch finger removed by hand. If rolled hems are a regular part of your sewing, a lever changeover will save you a noticeable amount of time over the life of the machine.
Being able to disengage the blade lets you overlock without trimming. This is useful when you are working to an exact seam allowance, sewing over an existing finished edge or adding a decorative flatlock where you do not want fabric removed.
Overlocker Brands
Brother Overlockers
Brother overlockers sit at the accessible end of the market without cutting corners on build. The range is known for straightforward machines and the F.A.S.T. lower looper threading system on its manual models, which makes setup easier for new overlocker users. The Airflow 3000 brings the range into air threading. Brother suits beginners and regular home sewers who want consistent results without a steep learning curve.
Popular models: Brother 2104D, Brother 3034DWT, Brother 4234D, Brother Airflow 3000
Janome Overlockers
Janome overlockers are well regarded for their metal internal construction, which gives them a steady feel even at higher speeds. The range runs from straightforward beginner machines to air threading models, with build standards holding up across the price points. Janome suits sewers who want a machine to grow into.
Popular models: Janome 8004D, Janome 9300DX, Janome MyLock 454D, Janome MyLock 654D, Janome AT2000D
BERNINA Overlockers
BERNINA overlockers are built to a high specification for experienced sewers who want fine control and long service life. The Micro Thread Control system allows precise tension adjustment without guesswork, while the Free Hand System (knee lift) on selected models keeps both hands on the fabric. BERNINA machines are a long-term buy suited to frequent, demanding use.
Popular models: BERNINA L450, BERNINA L460, BERNINA L850, BERNINA L860, BERNINA L890
bernette Overlockers
bernette is BERNINA's more accessible brand, offering solid performance at a lower price. The machines share design similarities with BERNINA but are built to a simpler specification, which makes them a good entry point for sewers who want that engineering without the full BERNINA outlay. The Airlock range brings air threading into the mid-range bracket.
Popular models: bernette Funlock B44, bernette Funlock B48, bernette b64 Airlock, bernette b68 Airlock
PFAFF Overlockers
PFAFF overlockers bring German design heritage to seam finishing. The range covers standard and air threading models with straightforward controls and dependable fabric handling. PFAFF suits sewers who appreciate clean mechanical design and predictable results across a range of fabric types.
Popular models: PFAFF Admire 1000, PFAFF Admire 3000, PFAFF Admire Air 7000 Coverlock Machine, PFAFF Admire Air 5000, PFAFF Admire Air 6000
baby lock Overlockers
baby lock built its reputation on air threading and its looper threading systems thread with a single action rather than by hand. The brand's focus is automation and stitch consistency, with automatic thread delivery on selected models removing most manual tension adjustment. baby lock is worth considering for sewers who want to spend their time sewing rather than setting up.
Popular models: baby lock Enspire, baby lock Victory, baby lock Enlighten, baby lock Acclaim
Not Sure Which Overlocker Is Right for You?
Take our quick quiz to get recommendations based on your experience, sewing goals and the projects you want to make. If you would rather talk it through, our free Machine Match Service offers a personalised recommendation from one of our machine experts.
