Overlocker Rolled Hem Not Forming Correctly - How to Fix It
A rolled hem is one of the most useful overlocker techniques but can be tricky to get right. If it's not rolling cleanly or the stitch looks wrong, it's almost always a settings or threading issue. Here's how to work through it.
Work through these steps in order
Start at step 1 and work your way down - most rolled hem problems come down to settings.
Check the stitch finger setting
The stitch finger needs to be switched from N (normal stitching) to R (rolled hem) before a rolled hem will form correctly. This is the most common cause of a rolled hem not forming - check this before anything else.
- Locate the stitch finger lever or dial - it's usually found in the looper area and marked N and R
- Make sure it's switched to R before attempting a rolled hem
- Check your manual if you can't locate it on your specific model
- A small number of machines have a separate rolled hem lever or selector in addition to this - check your manual to confirm what your machine requires
Check thread tension
Tension settings for a rolled hem are very different from standard overlocking. Getting the tension right is the key to a clean, tight roll.
- The lower looper tension typically needs to be significantly tightened to pull the fabric edge into a roll
- Start with the lower looper tension set high, test on scrap and adjust gradually until the edge rolls cleanly
- The upper looper tension may also need adjusting - refer to your manual for recommended starting settings for rolled hem on your machine
- Make small adjustments one dial at a time and test after each change
Check the stitch length
Stitch length has a significant effect on the finished appearance of a rolled hem.
- A shorter stitch length gives a tighter, neater rolled hem - try setting to around 1-1.5mm as a starting point
- Adjust from there and test on scrap until you're happy with the result
Check your thread type
Thread choice makes a noticeable difference to the quality of a rolled hem.
- Fine thread works best - woolly nylon or fine polyester in the upper looper gives a beautifully smooth, full finish
- Thread that's too thick can prevent the edge from rolling cleanly and make the hem look bulky
Consider your fabric
Not all fabrics are suitable for a rolled hem - the technique works best on certain fabric types.
- Rolled hem works best on lightweight woven fabrics such as chiffon, organza, fine cotton and silk
- Very thick, stiff or heavily structured fabrics won't roll cleanly - rolled hem is not suitable for all fabric types
- If the fabric isn't rolling despite correct settings, it may simply not be suitable for this technique
Test on scrap fabric
Always test on a piece of scrap of the same fabric before working on your actual project. A rolled hem often needs a little fine tuning to get right - don't be discouraged if it takes a few test runs to dial in the settings.
Quick fix checklist
Run through this before contacting us - it covers the most common causes.
- Stitch finger switched from N to R
- Any additional rolled hem lever or selector engaged if required by your machine
- Lower looper tension increased significantly and tested on scrap
- Upper looper tension adjusted as needed
- Stitch length set to around 1-1.5mm
- Fine thread used in the upper looper - woolly nylon or fine polyester
- Fabric type confirmed as suitable for rolled hem
Still having trouble? We're here to help.
If the rolled hem still isn't forming correctly after working through these steps, get in touch and our team will take it from there.
Still stuck? We are happy to help.
Our service team has seen every machine in our range and can usually diagnose problems over the phone.
