Overlocker Fabric Not Feeding Correctly - How to Fix It
If your fabric isn't moving through the overlocker smoothly, or your seams are coming out gathered or wavy when they shouldn't be, it's almost always a differential feed, presser foot or feed dog issue. Work through these steps to get things running smoothly again.
Work through these steps in order
Start at step 1 and work your way down - most fabric feeding problems have a straightforward cause.
Check the differential feed setting
The differential feed controls the ratio between the front and back feed dogs. It's one of the most useful settings on an overlocker but also one of the most common causes of feeding problems when set incorrectly.
Setting: 1 (neutral)
Standard starting point for most fabrics. Front and back feed dogs move at the same rate.
Seam gathering?
Differential feed is too high. Reduce towards 0.7 and test on scrap after each adjustment.
Seam stretching or waving?
Differential feed is too low. Increase towards 2 and test on scrap after each adjustment.
Check the presser foot pressure
If the presser foot pressure isn't set correctly for your fabric, the feed dogs can't grip and move it evenly.
- If the fabric isn't feeding evenly, try increasing the presser foot pressure slightly and test on scrap
- If you're sewing lightweight fabric and it seems to be dragging or puckering, try reducing the pressure slightly
- Check your manual for how to adjust presser foot pressure on your specific model
Clean the feed dogs
Lint and debris in the feed dog area can stop them gripping fabric properly, causing uneven or sluggish feeding.
- Use a small brush to clear any lint and debris from around the feed dogs
- Remove the needle plate if possible for a more thorough clean underneath
Check the stitch length
A very short stitch length can make feeding feel sluggish or uneven.
- Try setting the stitch length to around 2.5-3mm as a starting point
- Adjust from there based on your fabric - longer for thicker fabrics, shorter for fine ones
Consider your fabric type
Some fabrics need a little extra help to feed correctly through an overlocker.
- Stretchy fabrics naturally want to stretch as they feed - use a higher differential feed setting towards 2 to compensate and prevent the seam from waving
- Lightweight or slippery fabrics can shift as they feed - reduce speed and guide the fabric gently without pulling or pushing
- Very thick fabrics or multiple layers may need a slower speed and a longer stitch length to feed cleanly
Check the knife position
If the knife is disengaged the overlocker will still sew but won't trim the fabric edge, which can affect how the fabric feeds through.
- Check the knife is in the correct position for what you're sewing
- If you've previously disengaged the knife for a specific technique, make sure you've re-engaged it for standard overlocking
Test on scrap fabric
Before returning to your project, test on scrap fabric of a similar weight. Check the seam feeds evenly and lies flat without gathering or waving before continuing with your actual work.
Quick fix checklist
Run through this before contacting us - it covers the most common causes.
- Differential feed set to 1 as a starting point and adjusted gradually on scrap
- Seam gathering: differential feed reduced towards 0.7
- Seam stretching or waving: differential feed increased towards 2
- Presser foot pressure adjusted for fabric weight
- Feed dogs clean and free of lint
- Stitch length set to around 2.5-3mm as a starting point
- Knife in the correct position for standard overlocking
Still having trouble? We're here to help.
If your fabric is still not feeding correctly after working through these steps, get in touch and our team will take it from there.
Still stuck? We are happy to help.
Our service team has seen every machine in our range and can usually diagnose problems over the phone.
